Wednesday 3rd February 2010 | Posted by Márcio

The car pulls over and I am finally out whereas two couple of gringos are climbing on the top of my cab. I am not sure where I am stepping in but I am glad I am not alone. Gaviões da Fiel (which literally means Loyals’ Hawk – in reference to the symbol and “loyal” supporters of Corinthians”, a major football team based in São Paulo) is usually regarded as scary and violent gang but it is also regarded as one of the most vibrant and passionate of all of the supporters. As a non football fan and randomly a supporter of Palmeiras, their most hated enemies, I was not feeling comfortable to accept the coverage of São Paulo’s Carnival rehearsals inside the lions’ cage for Brazilian major paper A Folha de São Paulo. In fact I was terrified. However it did not take long for me to realise I have not been casted for any Hooligans sequel. People take me kindly when they noticed there was no way I could fit into their strictly black and white uniforms. Well, in fact they wear me with an orange wristband that could mean either I was an either gay or an enemy under their custody and luckily enough they behave far better than If I have been guest at Guantanamo Bay.

But when drums started to dictate the rhythm to be followed by the actors of this open air opera better known as samba schools performances I was one of the first ones to sing along songs of hate up against Palmeiras. “Let’s kill pigs!”. Pigs are how supporters of Palmeiras are called by Corintianos (a nickname that was ironically accepted and taken by fans of Palmeiras).

In fact, some of Brazilian Samba Schools in São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro were originaly created and associated with soccer teams in early 20 century. Nowadays Samba schools became a Brazilian media phenomenon from Globo Network (that sells its retransmission rights all over the world) as well as from illegal lottery godfathers.

Their critics also say samba is no longer in practice by the schools. Instead, they developed a frenetic soundtrack for their 1h30 performance driven by TV directors. It’s also one of the most lucrative commercials shows in Brazilian TV lasting for 6 to 7 hours of live transmission for 3 days in a row.

But here, in the heaven of “corintianos” everything can be forgiven. Even myself to find my way out when they proudly start singing out loud Corinthians hymn.

Brazilian Carnival runs from Feb. 13th to 16th and several parties take place all around the country. Samba Schools are just a part of the festivities.

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